Potatoes are Your Late Winter Friend

It doesn’t take much to convince me that Spring has finally arrived. A couple of days in the 70’s with the sun shining and the flowers starting to bloom completely fooled me into thinking my favorite season was here to stay. I could practically taste the fresh local greens that would be gracing my plate in what seemed like mere moments. I could hear the fresh snap of asparagus, bought from the Farmer’s Market, as I prepped them for a few moments in the steamer. I could feel the warmth of the soil as I planted my tomato starts.
So imagine my dismay when I woke the other day to what basically amounted to a blizzard. It felt like someone had played a cruel joke on me and I had slept through Spring, Summer, and Fall to return, once again, to the snow and cold. I wanted to crawl back under the covers. It wasn’t fair. I was depressed for days.
This is the time of year when all I want is fresh local food. I’ve eaten enough veggies trucked in from god-knows-where that lack flavor, freshness, and life. I want salad greens that last more than two days in the fridge. I want strawberries and tomatoes that actually taste like something and aren’t just red. This snow and cold weather are thwarting my desires.
Instead of giving in to despair since I can’t be with the local food I love, I’m taking Stephen Stills advice and I’m loving the local potatoes I’m with.
Potatoes are an ancient New World food. Scientists believe they first appeared in Peru some 10,000 years ago and spread throughout South and Central America (some wild species have even been found as far north as Texas). They are the most consumed vegetable in the US (sadly, it’s mostly as fries or chips). We eat, on average, a third of a pound per day (mostly Russet Burbanks, the ubiquitous Idaho potato).
There is thought to be over 5000 varieties of potatoes grown world-wide (which mean you could have a very satisfying potato-filled life and never have to eat another Russet). They come with white, yellow, pink or purple flesh with thin or thick skins. Some grow into a perfectly smooth, rounded shape, some look like fingers, and others look like strange warty creatures. The textures range from dry and mealy (this is actually a technical potato texture term) to moist and waxy. The flavors vary from earthy to fruity to flowery. Baking or browning brings out sweet and malty notes.
Your typical grocery store doesn’t offer much variety when it comes to potatoes (certainly nothing like the variety of overly sweetened, strangely colored breakfast cereal). You’d be lucky to find Russets, Reds, and Yukon Golds all on the same day. Luckily, local farmer don’t have to grow their potatoes to be picture perfect or to conform to some preconceived notion of what a potato should look like, they can grow for flavor and variety and for their own pleasure.
Vern Spencer (the Vern in Vern’s Veggies) did just that last year. He grew at least 12 different varieties of spuds and has carefully stored them so we could have at least one local veggie on our plates all winter long.
Vern sells his potatoes through Six Rivers Market (full disclosure: I now work there) and currently has ten varieties for sale. I’ve been buying a couple of different kinds each week. The variation between them is quite surprising. Right away, you notice the physical difference. Some are round with smooth skin, some have a rough purplish outer layer and a day glow purple center, and some are so knobby and warty that it’s a good thing I don’t like to peel my potatoes, I wouldn’t know where to begin.
The distinctive tastes come out when they are boiled side-by-side and dressed with a little salt and butter. You notice the texture first. Those with higher levels of the starch amylose are dry and light due to the fact that amylose starch cells tend to swell and separate from one another as they cook. Their waxy cousins contain more amylopectin starch whose cells tend to stick together even when cooked, giving them a smoother, moister texture.
Each potato variety also has a distinctive flavor. Some are sweet, some have an almost nutty quality, while others have more earthy notes (although the distinctions are definitely subtle).
When it comes to how to cook which potato, the most important consideration is texture. If you want fluffy mashed potatoes or French fries with a crispy outside and a dry interior, start with a “mealy” (I wish they had a better word for this) potato like a Purple Peruvian or Russian Banana (or the Russet Burbank; it’s high amylase content is what makes it the perfect French fry and potato chip potato). If you want your potato to maintain its shape after it’s cooked for gratins or potato salad, use a waxy variety like Desiree or Rose Finn Apple (my personal favorite). Experiment with all the different kinds available here to find your own favorite.
If you are not a member of Six Rivers Market, you can also buy potatoes from Vern at the Farmer’s Market, which starts up again on Saturday. If you’re not much of a cook, the next time you have potatoes at Ivano’s or Spuds, ask them what variety of Vern’s potatoes their serving. But by all means, while you’re waiting for your spring greens to arrive, try something new in the potato world. After all, Russet Burbanks make up only one five-thousandths of the possibilities (even if we do live in Idaho).


Purple Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes
Serves 4

1 head garlic (see below)
Olive oil for drizzling
2 T butter
2 lbs Purple Peruvian potatoes, cut into small (2”dia or less) pieces, peeling is optional
1/2 c milk, warmed
Salt and pepper to taste

Cut the top off the head of garlic to just expose the cloves. Drizzle with olive oil and wrap in aluminum foil. Bake at 400F until the cloves are soft, about 20 minutes. Let cool and remove cloves from skin and set aside
.
Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook potatoes until a fork pierces them easily, about 15 minutes.
When the potatoes are done, drain them and return them to the pot. Add the garlic and mash the potatoes and garlic thoroughly. Turn the heat on very low and add the butter. Slowly stir in the milk. Mix well until creamy and the butter is melted. Admire the amazing color and serve immediately.

Auntie Har’s Oven Fries
(My aunt showed me how to make these super easy and delicious “fries”. They’re a staple in our house)
Serves 2

4 medium sized Desiree potatoes (these yield a creamier center, use a mealy potato if you want a more traditionally dry French fry center)
2 T olive oil
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the over to 400F. Cut the potatoes into wedges lengthwise. Place them in a bowl and drizzle with the olive oil. Coarsely chop the rosemary and add it to the bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Toss all the ingredients together, coating the potatoes thoroughly. Place on an ungreased baking sheet, peel side down if they will stand up. Bake 20 minutes or until brown and crispy. Try and not eat them all before serving.